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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.